Black Women Want Healthy Looking Skin and Need Black Estheticians
Photo source: Fourth Ray Beauty
By Iesha Johnson
I’ve struggled with acne and hyperpigmentation since puberty and throughout my adult life with little to no hope that it would ever get better. I tried every solution from home remedies to prescription skincare products but to no avail. I figured my skin was just made this way, and there was nothing I could do to change that, so I taught myself to apply makeup well to cover the imperfections that I hated so much. The flaws still showed through the makeup application. Still, there was absolutely no way I’d leave my house without applying a full coverage foundation, not even to grab groceries.
I began researching skincare for Black women on YouTube --- yes, YouTube of all places! I put my trust in the opinions of beauty influencers because I had no idea where to find information regarding skincare for women of color. This was the moment when I began to wonder how many other women, specifically Black women, were silently struggling with pigmentation disorders and covering it with makeup rather than attacking the underlying issue head-on. With this question at the forefront of my mind, I enrolled in an esthetician school. On the first day of class, my instructor asked, “What do you plan to do with your degree?”
My response was, “Educate Black women about the treatments available to treat our most common skin concerns.” This statement was met with disdain from classmates of other ethnic backgrounds, and I was repeatedly told this was a bad idea because “Black people don’t get facials or spend money on skincare.”
During my time in school, I was determined to figure out why Black women (and men) typically will not invest in skincare, especially when so many are unsatisfied with the condition of their skin. I learned from data collected in a personal Facebook and Instagram poll, the lack of representation of Black women in the esthetics industry creates distrust and uncertainty in correctly identifying and treating the most common skincare concerns amongst Black women. Our skin is very delicate and pigments easily, which may intimidate estheticians who are not accustomed to working with darker skin tones. Corrective skincare solutions for darker skin tones should consist of a treatment plan that acts progressively rather than aggressively to avoid causing further damage to already compromised skin.
With this understanding, I found the answer to my question. The reason why Black women and other women of color are hesitant to trust an esthetician is simply lack of education. There are not enough resources readily available to us in the form of skincare education. Most of us either use drug store brand products that we were introduced to us as adolescents or use nothing more than regular soap and water.
As an esthetician, it is my job to educate my clients, not just sell them a product or treatment. Creating trust and a safe, welcoming environment where clients can be completely vulnerable, surpasses the value of any dollar. Like myself, most of my clientele struggle with pigmentation issues, and they are searching for someone who resonates with their struggles along with effective, affordable services and skincare products.
My company, Posh and Pampered Beauty Bar L.L.C., was created in response to Black women in need of affordable corrective skincare solutions.
The product lines used for retail and back bar (for use during services) are formulated with fruit and plant extracts to target common skin issues such as hyperpigmentation and acne scarring. When treating hyperpigmentation, the best natural ingredients to be incorporated into home care and professional treatment are ascorbic acid (vitamin c), retinol, mandelic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, licorice root, bearberry, mushroom extract, green tea extract, and azelaic acid. Wearing SPF is essential in the fight against hyperpigmentation, especially when using products with the active ingredients mentioned previously. Only professional and medical-grade products have a high enough percentage and quality of these active ingredients to yield effective, long-lasting results. Professional or medical-grade skincare products are not sold in drug stores and are only available through a licensed professional. All efficacy claims must be proven for a product to be listed as professional or medical grade.
Incorporating medical and professional-grade products into a daily skincare regimen is just the tip of the iceberg for treating hyperpigmentation. There are a multitude of treatment modalities suitable for women of color.
The effectiveness of these treatments may be altered by family history and genetics, lifestyle and environmental factors, and health issues. Although the following treatments are suitable for women of color, some may be contraindicated and unable to receive these services due to skin diseases and disorders, pregnancy, epilepsy, diabetes, metastatic cancer, or recent surgeries.
I’ve found that chemical peels are most effective in treating the underlying cause of hyperpigmentation. A chemical peel is the use of chemical agents to create controlled epidermal wounding. Epidermal wounding is a peeling injury that is limited to the layers of the epidermis: stratum corneum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum, and basal layers. The injuries are very superficial and heal within days. The depth of the wound is controlled by the esthetician performing the service. There are different indicators of peel depth, depending on which peel solution is used for treatment. A skilled esthetician is trained to rapidly identify each indicator and respond by removing the peel using the required method for the solution. The ability to control the wound is determined by pretreatment routine, the length of pretreatment, and in-spa skin preparation.
Ideally, to effectively “lift” pigment, the peel solution should reach the basal layers of the epidermis. This is where melanocytes are found. Melanocytes are “pigment cells” or melanin-forming cells. The enzyme that stimulates melanocytes to create melanin is tyrosinase. Everyone has melanocytes, which means everyone’s skin produces melanin. Melanin is tiny grains of pigment produced by melanocytes and deposited into cells in the stratum germinativum layer of the epidermis and in the papillary layers of the dermis. It is a protein that determines hair, eye, and skin color and is a defense mechanism to protect skin from the sun. There are two types of melanin: eumelanin, which is dark brown to black, and pheomelanin, which is red to yellow. Products that suppress melanin production by interrupting biochemical processes are referred to as brightening agents or tyrosinase inhibitors. These products are designed to reduce hyperpigmentation.
Other advanced hyperpigmentation treatment modalities include dermaplaning, Collagen Induction Therapy (microneedling), Microdermabrasion, and laser resurfacing treatments, none of which should be performed at home unless you are a licensed professional.
Dermaplaning gently exfoliates the surface of the epidermis using a surgical #10 blade to remove vellus hair (peach fuzz) and dead skin cells. Any form of exfoliation increases the cell renewal factor or cell turn over rate, which is the rate of cell mitosis and migration from the dermis to the top of the epidermis. This process slows down with age and requires stimulation. The average rate of cell turnover for adults is 28-42 days; for those 50 and older, 42 to 84 days. Keeping cell mitosis going is essential to skin preservation. Dermaplaning can be combined with the chemical peel process to increase the depth of the peel solution.
Collagen Induction Therapy, most commonly known as microneedling, uses a 0.5-inch needle to create a controlled wound of microchannels in the skin to stimulate fibroblast to produce new collagen and elastin. The client will bleed and experience erythema; however the process is not painful. Contraindications should be discussed and determined before proceeding with the service. C.I.T. should only be performed by a medical/master esthetician. This treatment is effective in reducing the appearance of stretch marks as well.
Microdermabrasion is a form of mechanical machine exfoliation that originated in Europe. The machine is a powerful electronic vacuum. Microdermabrasion is achieved by spraying high-grade microcrystals composed of corundum powder or aluminum oxide across the skin’s surface through a handpiece. Treatments are quick 30-minute services and can be done every 4-6 weeks.
Becoming an esthetician exposed me to a side of skincare that I never knew existed for me as a Black woman. Like many others, I was under the impression that Black girls cannot get chemical peels or other advanced treatments.
I am so grateful to have been proven wrong. I have been documenting my skin journey for two years, and the results have been phenomenal. Ultimately, I want to help other Black women feel the liberation of being comfortable in their natural skin. The feeling is unmatched. To have my clients know that makeup is an option; not a necessity is a greater reward than any monetary gain.
Iesha Johnson is a mom, wife, entrepreneur, master esthetician, and business owner. At 27, she launched her own company geared towards educating and helping women of color treat pigmentation disorders effectively and affordably. After her struggle with acne and hyperpigmentation, she’s determined to lead other Black women on the path to the best skin of their lives. She’s been in business as an esthetician for a year, and she’s now pursuing a Bachelor’s in small business and entrepreneurship. In addition to educating clients on proper skincare protocols, she aims to teach other estheticians how to treat darker skin tones cautiously, yet effectively. Her goal is to make an impact while earning an income from her passion.